Bon Voyage at Dirty Dick: Exploring Paris's Vibrant Rum Scene
Tiki bar Dirty Dick, in Paris’ Pigalle neighborhood.
Part 1 of a Sojourn through Paris with Rum
A Spirited Journey to Dirty Dick in Montmartre, Paris
It was my first day on a short visit to Paris. We strolled down the steps into the vibrant neighborhood of Pigalle, nestled within the fabled Montmartre area of Paris. This neighborhood is famous for its churches, artists, and a touch of the red-light district.
The Allure of Montmartre
Here, Picasso, Van Gogh, and Josephine Baker found inspiration. We had just visited the Sacre-Coeur Cathedral. We saw The Wall of Love near the Abbesses Metro station (I first saw this on “Emily in Paris”). We were looking for Dirty Dick, the first bar on my Yelp search, described as a tiki bar featuring rum. As we got closer, I understood the double entendre of the name. Sex shops, saunas, and massage establishments dotted the streets. The neighborhood exuded a seedy charm without feeling menacing. Tourists and families ambled about, enjoying the pleasant spring air as the evening sun broke through the clouds.
Entering Dirty Dick
A red sign above its entrance marked Dirty Dick's presence, its façade adorned with Polynesian carved teak wood. The large rectangular window offered a glimpse into a dimly lit interior. To the right of the window was a wooden door with a round glass porthole. As we entered, we found a single patron seated at the bar, sipping a cocktail from a tiki mug. A fresh citrus scent filled the air as our eyes adjusted to the darkness. Bartenders squarely prepared the evening's drinks, slicing lemons, limes, and oranges. We exchanged greetings with the bartenders as we made our way through the establishment. Towards the back, a lounge room was adorned with murals depicting South Pacific themes and other nautical elements, but we chose seats at the bar, where we could observe the art of cocktail-making and engage in conversation.
The Ambiance and Drink Selection
Reggae music is played through a laptop connected to a sound system, with a Spotify playlist centered around Peter Tosh. The bar possessed an appeal that matched perfectly with the neighborhood's ambiance. This place was not a shrine to rum, with prominent displays of bottles behind the bar. Instead, various rums were scattered throughout the shelves, their brands somewhat obscured by the dim lighting.
The single-page drink menu featured two main categories: "Tropical Classics" and "Rhum Rhapsodies." The Classics included Missionary Downfall, Zombie, Painkiller, Mai Tai, and Three Dots & Dab. The whimsical Rhapsody side featured the Guadalupe Frappe, a frozen daiquiri, and a fittingly named drink for the neighborhood called Dill Doh—a non-alcoholic frozen concoction made with sugar cane juice, hints of dill, citrus, and anise.
The Daiquiri Test
We each ordered a classic daiquiri—a simple yet telling test of a bartender's skill, much like assessing a chef by their omelet. The daiquiri is a cocktail anyone can make at home, but true professionals elevate it to a higher level.
The bartender, Nico, introduced himself and his fellow bartender, Alex, the manager. I asked if the founder was around. I had read that he was a Californian. Nico informed us he was at their new bar in the South of France. When I asked if it was also called Dirty Dick, he said, chuckling, "No, Menage a Trois!"
The Rum Exploration
Our daiquiris were impeccable. Made with Havana 3 rum, they arrived in icy-cold coupes with a subtly sugared rim. The ratio of cane syrup to lime juice was perfectly balanced, leaning more towards tart than sweet, allowing the rum to shine with its light and airy Cuban character. It was a simple cocktail executed with skill.
During our conversation, I inquired about the rums that Dirty Dick went through the most. Nico mentioned that Havana 3 was popular due to its use in daiquiris, but they also had significant consumption of Plantation, Smith + Cross, and, more recently, Renegade from Grenada. Intrigued by the mention of Renegade, I asked Nico if we could sample it, as it was unavailable in my local market. He grabbed a bottle of the Lake Antoine for us to try. It is an unaged rum from what is the newest distillery in the West Indies. The label with bright pastels and block fonts reminded me of 1980s album cover art. The words on the label included “cane-rum, pre-cask, single farm origin, pot still.” I was stunned. They had ignored entirely all previous conventions on how to promote rum. Plantation and Smith + Cross are two rums of recent origins to get some widespread notice. They wrap themselves in the nostalgia of the good ole days of plantations and when companies with two Anglo surnames sold goods in the dockyards. Renegade at first sounded to me like a pirate name play (not unlike Privateer), but in this case, it was someone who betrays a set of principles, and that’s OK when the principles might need some betraying.
Back to the rum itself. The nose carried hints of oily olives and seaweed. Still, upon tasting, it revealed itself as a rhum agricole—though slightly more subdued, lacking the vibrant grassiness typically associated with the style. Initially, the olive aroma seemed deceptive, which didn't translate directly into the taste. However, on the finish, it resurfaced, reminiscent of the aftermath of enjoying an olive in a martini. I was blown away and eager to explore more from this distillery. I felt like I just heard “London Calling” from the Clash for the first time and wondered if they had any more songs.
The Growing Popularity of Rum in Paris
As our conversation continued, more people began to trickle into the bar, making their way to the back lounge area. Soon, orders flowed in, allowing us to watch Nico expertly craft numerous cocktails. In between preparations, I asked Nico about the popularity of rum among younger Parisians. He confirmed that rum had experienced a significant surge in popularity over the past five years. Before that, bourbon and whiskey had dominated the scene. The current trend leaned heavily towards cocktails, particularly on tiki-inspired creations.
When I asked to see a list of their rums, Nico said it constantly changed, making it challenging to maintain a list. While Dirty Dick may not have been a shrine to rum itself, it embodied the essence of rum culture, treating the spirit carefully and utilizing it expertly in its craft.
Before saying goodbye, we were treated to the spectacle of Nico creating and igniting Zombies—a true delight. I asked about the rum used in this fiery concoction. Nico explained that it was a house blend comprising rums such as Plantation 3 Star, Smith + Cross, Don Q, and a selection from Demerara. He gave us a taste of the mixture. Approved.
A New Parisian Experience
My companion this whole time was my sister. She has been in Paris for four years and has hosted many friends and family members with an extra rush of people since the COVID lockdowns. She looks at the Notre Dame and the Eifel Tower like a New Yorker looks at the Statue of Liberty and the Empire State Building; there it is. She has graciously ridden on the tourist boats up and down the Seine countless times, knowing it was a meaningful experience for her guests. Seeking out a place that specializes in rum was something other than what she knew Paris offered. She gave Dirty Dick the ultimate endorsement, saying, “I think I just found a new place to take my guests.”
Author Owen Hyland founded Faraday West Indies Rum and lives in New Hampshire.